Quality of Busou Shinki
Moderator: Caterwaul
Re: Quality of Busou Shinki
Because hard plastic would likely snap way easier when trying to get accessories in/out. The rubber is bad in terms of trying to turn the hand for poses (I've ruined a couple of hands already), but if they were hard plastic I think we'd have a lot of stories about shinki fingers snapping.
Actually, out of Figma, Revoltech and MMS/Shinki, Shinki has been the only line where anything's actually broken on me, and that would be these darn rubber hands. The other lines have just annoyingly fallen apart once in a while, but the joints snap back in easily.
Actually, out of Figma, Revoltech and MMS/Shinki, Shinki has been the only line where anything's actually broken on me, and that would be these darn rubber hands. The other lines have just annoyingly fallen apart once in a while, but the joints snap back in easily.
- Xehn
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Re: Quality of Busou Shinki
The only damage that's occurred to my shinki has been... well, damage they came with. Two of them have a knee that was riveted too tight, cracking one side. This is purely aesthetic, though, and they haven't broken further.
Altrene came with an improperly set bit that caused one of her blue lens pieces to crack, but that was a factory error by whoever was assembling her.
Altrene came with an improperly set bit that caused one of her blue lens pieces to crack, but that was a factory error by whoever was assembling her.
- v2gundam
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Re: Quality of Busou Shinki
I'm not one to talk about this because I don't play around with my figure that much, but here's my 2 cents:
Busou Shinki:
- Nothing broken for all basic figures. Some hands do begin to loosen in grip when holding heavier items. the most problem I have is with earlier release shinki's friction joints being too weak.
- Armor-wise, FortBragg's hook "holster" for the pistol snapped at the base of the joint, fixed with model cement. One of the hook for Waffebunny chest armor snapped. Again cement fixed the problem.
Figma:
- one of the hand ball joint snapped inside the socket, unable to retrieve from the socket.
-Pretty tight joints and because of the breakage experienced I avoid moving it any further.
S.I.C.:
- One rivet swivel joint at the elbow snapped. 2 part resin used to recombine broken pieces and joint is restore (purely by luck, I was expecting the elbow to be fixed in place instead)
- In general all knee, wrist and elbow joints are very loose at the ball joints, but really tight to pull out when part swapping is needed
Revoltech Fraulein (That's right! Fraulein!):
- 2 occasions where figures' cut joints come off when taken out of packaging, the breakage is at the point where joint (hard plastic) and the limbs (softer PVC) are supposed to be stuck together. Super glue are used and fixed in both case.
-swivel joints are not intended to hold weight at all (hard to stand up by itself), and revoltech joints tightness sometimes vary, but usually enough to hold pose.
Saint Seiya Myth Cloth:
- Diecast joints at the feet and ankles are VERY tight, the rest are too weak to hold up the diecast armor it is suppose to use.
To me, my personal experience tells me that only Shinki (especially the more recent release) has been consistently provide the adequate durability and joint strength to fullfill it's designed purposes. It is of course quite limited to what I experience so far, and I'm not the biggest figure collector here.
Busou Shinki:
- Nothing broken for all basic figures. Some hands do begin to loosen in grip when holding heavier items. the most problem I have is with earlier release shinki's friction joints being too weak.
- Armor-wise, FortBragg's hook "holster" for the pistol snapped at the base of the joint, fixed with model cement. One of the hook for Waffebunny chest armor snapped. Again cement fixed the problem.
Figma:
- one of the hand ball joint snapped inside the socket, unable to retrieve from the socket.
-Pretty tight joints and because of the breakage experienced I avoid moving it any further.
S.I.C.:
- One rivet swivel joint at the elbow snapped. 2 part resin used to recombine broken pieces and joint is restore (purely by luck, I was expecting the elbow to be fixed in place instead)
- In general all knee, wrist and elbow joints are very loose at the ball joints, but really tight to pull out when part swapping is needed
Revoltech Fraulein (That's right! Fraulein!):
- 2 occasions where figures' cut joints come off when taken out of packaging, the breakage is at the point where joint (hard plastic) and the limbs (softer PVC) are supposed to be stuck together. Super glue are used and fixed in both case.
-swivel joints are not intended to hold weight at all (hard to stand up by itself), and revoltech joints tightness sometimes vary, but usually enough to hold pose.
Saint Seiya Myth Cloth:
- Diecast joints at the feet and ankles are VERY tight, the rest are too weak to hold up the diecast armor it is suppose to use.
To me, my personal experience tells me that only Shinki (especially the more recent release) has been consistently provide the adequate durability and joint strength to fullfill it's designed purposes. It is of course quite limited to what I experience so far, and I'm not the biggest figure collector here.

- pyroko
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Re: Quality of Busou Shinki
most tight figma joints can be loosened up with a hair dryer or a bit of warm water.v2gundam wrote:Figma:
-Pretty tight joints and because of the breakage experienced I avoid moving it any further.
- Zero_Blazer
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Re: Quality of Busou Shinki
Crap...
You know how the rubber hand is hinged onto the plastic wrist? one of the holes for the wrist snapped, or broke, I don't know. Has this happened to anyone? And how can I remedy it? T_T
You know how the rubber hand is hinged onto the plastic wrist? one of the holes for the wrist snapped, or broke, I don't know. Has this happened to anyone? And how can I remedy it? T_T

- Xehn
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Re: Quality of Busou Shinki
...you might be able to repair it with a TINY dot of superglue?
- Zero_Blazer
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Re: Quality of Busou Shinki
I noticed Sonja seemed to have some hand problems too. I'm trying to be more careful with my Valona now, but it's hard since she's basically meant to be moved around. >_>

- Caterwaul
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Re: Quality of Busou Shinki
I've had it happen to me too. That piece is hardier then you'd think it is, but once it goes, I've yet to figure out a way to repair it.Zero_Blazer wrote:You know how the rubber hand is hinged onto the plastic wrist? one of the holes for the wrist snapped, or broke, I don't know. Has this happened to anyone? And how can I remedy it? T_T

Re: Quality of Busou Shinki
Yeah, that's exactly the problem I have with the hands. I now try to turn the hands carefully by the wrist.
Fortunately, a lot of shinkis share hand colors so I have quite a few extras typically in case one goes. Unless it's someone like Werkstra Repaint where her hands aren't quite black, but a deep blue-grey, so I'm more careful with her.
Fortunately, a lot of shinkis share hand colors so I have quite a few extras typically in case one goes. Unless it's someone like Werkstra Repaint where her hands aren't quite black, but a deep blue-grey, so I'm more careful with her.
- blade_anime
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Re: Quality of Busou Shinki
I've had some revoltech trouble. For my Gurren Lagann Fulldrillized, there is a huge design flaw where the drills from the wrist really prevent you from putting on the drill accessory. My sister has a revoltech VF (Not triple changer and I forget which one) and the super gear parts for the back, the plastic kinda pushed in when inserting it so that it wouldn't go in all the way and the peg snapped. Haven't posed my shinkis yet so far, so I'm not sure how I'd compare them.
